Stock, Women & Writing

Die wohlerfahrne Hamburger Köchin, oder Unterricht für ein junges Frauenzimmer, das ihre Küche selbst besorgen, und außer den gewöhnlichen Speisen, noch etwas gutes zu Tische liefern will : Bestehend in 281 Regeln die besten Suppen zu kochen, von Fleischs

[A ‘HAMBURG HOUSEWIFE’]
Altona, Hamburg, & Leipzig, Bechtold
1807
US$ 1,450.00
THIRD RECORDED COPY of this cookbook for Saxon housewives – or rather particularly, according to the title-page, for young women “who have to care for their kitchen themselves, and besides the usual meals, want to provide something good for the table…”. The engraved frontispiece curiously depicts a young woman showing her well-dressed husband the ways of the kitchen, including roasting a bird on a spit and gutting a fish; cured meats hang from the ceiling while pots and pans line the walls. The ‘Hamburger Köchin’ is here instructed in an array of classic North-German dishes, including various items in white sauces (pp. 44-45): “gestovte türkische Bohnen’ [creamed Turkish beans] and a variety of savory pies or Pastete. Foreign influence is apparent in recipes for ‘Poppidons’ and ‘Puddings’ including ‘einen englischen Spinat-Pudding’ (p. 134) and ‘Plump-Pudding’; a few dishes are even sadly directed to be cooked ‘auf englischen Manier’. Other recipes of note include wild boar’s head (p. 59); pig-ear and foot ragout (p. 60); songbirds ((kleine Vögel); creamed hops (p. 82); Rindfleisch-Suppe mit Macaroni (p. 13); eine frische Ochsen-Zunge (p. 22); and a Sardellen-Sauce on p. 28. Pigeon or dove (Taube) is accorded a few recipes, as is turkey (referred to by the term ‘Kalkuten’, or ‘of Calcutta’ presumably in reference to its exotic origins!). Unlike most other cookbooks of this period which enjoyed multiple editions, the present work was never re-issued. OCLC shows just two other copies worldwide, at Stanford and Berlin.